Memories of a Bad Day with Deviled Eggs
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The article about Saida Woolf’s imaginative science project (‘The quest for the easy peeling egg’ page 22 of The Loop’s May 23, 2015 issue, Vol. 28, #10) in which she examined a cooking mystery propelled me into the past to a very bad morning I spent attempting to make deviled eggs.
It was Easter Sunday and I foolishly left the egg preparation for after the church service. We were to go to my brother-in law’s house and the eggs were to be my contribution, as various relatives brought different dishes. I had not made them before, but how difficult could this be? Well, I soon found out.
I had a reliable recipe of my Mom’s who had made them once in a while, but had no clue as to why they turned out well. I had twenty-four very fresh eggs (fresh is better, right?). We had gone to an early service, so I had about five hours to complete the process. After I cooled the eggs I attempted to peel them. One by one they disintegrated before my eyes, sticking to the shell. Many of them resembled the moon with its many craters. Some developed dangling appendages which looked vaguely like scimitars. Others looked as though they had had bad plastic surgery.
Finally I ended up with a dozen survivors, not all perfect. But I was somewhat cheered by the fact that I could cut the survivors in half, and fill my cute old-fashioned egg tray. Making the filling and spooning it into the tiny egg-boats was a snap, by comparison
For quite a few years the two words “deviled eggs” sent a chill through my spine. Even worse was the question, “Would you like to bring deviled eggs?” I would quickly avoid eye contact, feeling as though I had been asked to walk the plank. Quite a few years later an elderly friend who had been a caterer revealed the secret, which Saida explored in her project.
“Sue,” she said, “the secret is to use old eggs.” I was stunned, and Saida, you have saved a lot of women a lot of pain by sharing your family secret.
I haven’t enjoyed Saida’s family’s eggs yet, but here is a recipe for the filling that I really like, developed by a friend:
Mix and fill egg-boats with yummy mixture. This will fill about 12 large eggs. I usually use all the yolks and enjoy eating them as a reward for my hard work. Yes, I know this isn’t a perfectly healthy recipe, but deviled eggs are diabolically hard work and you won’t be making them every day, you can bet your life on it.
