By Susan Wiggins
Mayor
Whitehouse cookbook
A Page of History
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Recently I noted that I have been unable to locate my mother’s original copy of the White House Cookbook, originally published in 1887. My mother’s version was revised in 1900, according to documentation she had received about it.
But…I couldn’t find it anywhere. I went to my Brother Bill Deaver’s house and went through some of his boxes of “stuff” to no avail. In the meantime I ordered a reprint of the book from Amazon and thought that way at least I could write about it. (not cheap, either)
Not too long ago I was cleaning out a hope chest that had belonged to my husband Ed’s grandmother, so I could give the hope chest to his brother Larry Wiggins. That prompted me to move my hope chest that belonged to my mother (It’s a girl thing guys – we move things).
While I was doing that I decided to look inside once again, and lo and behold – there was the Whitehouse Cookbook, carefully wrapped in plastic to protect it.
When I was cleaning out my mom’s house I guess I put it in there to “keep it safe.”
The book is in such bad shape that it is literally falling apart, but I have the new revision to which I can refer.
The original cookbook was dedicated to “The wives of our presidents, those noble women who have graced the White House, and whose names and memories are dear to all Americans.”
The book is complete in the many subjects it addresses, including carving of various meats, because this book included “entirely new and original designs of carving, and is so far a departure from the usual mode of treating the subject.”
Other information in the cookbook covers, how hospitality was conducted in the White House, the menus served on special occasions, views of the interior, and portraits of the ladies of the White House. Meals to send to the invalid were also included, “facts worth knowing”, such as, how to prevent mold (carbolic acid), how to clean marble busts (weak hydrochloric acid), and ants (flour of brimstone and potash).
Many pages were given to carving and serving of the various meats, including beef, lamb, pork, venison, veal, and fish. Fowl also included turkey, goose, pheasant, and duck.
The author warns to never use steel to serve fish, as it will impart a “very disagreeable flavor.” Only a fish trowel of plated silver “is the proper article to use.”
As for lamb, “one that is born in the middle of winter, reared under shelter, and fed in a good measure upon milk, then killed in the spring, is considered a great delicacy, but is still good at one year.”
Concerning venison, “the meat of a female deer, about four years old, is the sweetest and best of venison.” The author noted that, “no meat requires so much care as venison in killing, preserving, and dressing.”
Desserts were featured, as was canning and preserving. Measurements for cooking were a little different, such as “a wine glass of brandy” for a citron pound cake, or a small coconut, grated for another cake.
A lemon cookie recipe listed ingredients and added “use no other wetting.” Raised doughnuts called for making a “sponge” out of yeast and warm milk.
And of course do not forget mince meat pies, made with real fresh beef and beef suet.
When I was little my mother told me how her parents would go pick gooseberries for cooking. In the cookbook I found a recipe for gooseberry fool. Now all I need are the gooseberries.
My mother kept the White House Cookbook up in a high cupboard in her kitchen with the other cookbooks.
I remember her bringing it down on special occasions, but I don’t know what she looked up. Nonetheless, I will keep it and cherish it, wrapped in its plastic, hopefully preserving it as much as I can, for my daughter.
